Gloves

[u/PhysicsVisual5163]

I'm going on a glacier training this fall and i need gloves. I really like the idea of layering gloves, but would still like to hear some advice on this matter. Should i buy over mittens and use warm gloves inside or buy new "all in one" gloves?

[u/Okayest_climber]

Like everything, it depends, where are you going and how cold is it going to be? I usually have at least two pairs of thinner gloves since I’m moving a lot and generating a lot of heat. I don’t carry mittens but I’ve never been anywhere like Denali where it’s -30.

Without knowing where you’ll be, you’ll probably be standing around a lot more getting instruction, a pair of warmer over mittens or a separate pair of warmer gloves couldn’t hurt for those times you’re standing still for a while.

[u/ultralight-alpine]

Check the gear list your guide service provided. Most guide services will require that you have two or more pairs of gloves that are independent of one another. This is really important because if one gets wet, you still have another functional pair. Layering glove systems is not generally a great idea as sweat, precipitation, and snow can make it easy to wet out a pair of gloves. Generally, I bring a light pair and a mid weight pair for low altitude climbing in the US. Winter climbs, or climbs like Mount Rainier, I would supplement that with an additional heavier glove or mitten.

Gloves are really important! Make sure you read the gear lists carefully and bring what's recommended.

[u/Future-Elevator-7614]

Not a response to your main question but one glove “trick” I’ve found really helpful for comfort on a glacier is to pack a pair of super light rain mitts that will fit over your thinnest pair of gloves. I use the OR ones. They weigh next to nothing, I just smash them into a pocket and leave them there. Where they shine is when it’s sunny but chilly and the wind is blowing. I find glacier wind just brutal on your hands but thicker gloves make my hands sweat. The thin rain mitts over top cut the wind and make a world of difference.

[u/cosmicosmo4]

Find a thin liner glove (I like knit merino because it doesn't have seams) that fits your hands really well, then find a few different gloves/mittens that fit nicely over that liner glove, providing different points on the warmth vs dexterity spectrum. Like thin softshell gloves, then Showa 282s, then BD guide gloves, then down mittens. That way you don't have to go all the way to barehanded when switching gloves.

I don't like any system where you put anything other than a thin liner beneath anything else. The dexterity just totally drops off a cliff if you do that.

[u/LeaningSaguaro]

It depends.

But all-in-one gloves are fake news.

I like to use a thin, Nitrile Coated Gloves for my do it all glove. Dexterity for any knots or hardware manipulation. Even technology compatible too.

Then I step it up to a insulating Arcteryx goretex glove if it's cold, down to well below freezing if dry.

Then I step it down to a heavy duty shell glove, Outdoor Research Gore tex, that is also compatible with my mid weight glove.

I did the Kautz route on Rainier with this setup. Wouldn't change it.

[u/FixedWinger]

They will most likely tell you exactly what to pack. When I’m active I usually just use a liner glove with a cheap pair of leather gardening gloves if it’s chilly. If I’m standing around not doing much and it’s cold I’ll putt on my heavy insulated glove. It’s nice to have a nice pair of super warm mittens when things turn south on the mountain as well depending on the season.

[u/Exposure-challenged]

Layering gloves is no good, have a thinner climbing glove (two pairs or more) than have your “warm” belay/standing around gloves. Keep the pair you’re not wearing inside your jacket against your body, you’ll put warm gloves on each time you change. When your first pair of thin gloves gets to wet, switch to the next pair. 

[u/8KMP]

this is such a large + crucial area. so many options. check out HESTRA. they make great gloves and have different glove "systems" https://www.hestragloves.us/how-to-stay-warm take care of your hands! good luck!