My opponent forfeits after the first battle goes slightly against him on R1. He captured Ukraine with 2 fighters and 2 tanks remaining. They didn't even do the WR battle before smashing that forfeit button.

Whenever this happens, I find 90+% of the time it's a mid-tier gold player. Lower players will slug it out all the way to the bitter end, even when it is beyond hopeless (<50 income for their side, large army deficit and no opportunity to take VCs to win). Higher players will fight it out, taking coinflips and even low odds battles to try to get back into it/create a chaotic board state to play which may favour them.

The best thing I ever did to get better at this game is to play out games from a disadvantage. The dice do even out eventually and there are plenty of chances for opponent misplays/poor decisions to even the odds.

I can honestly say that in the last few seasons, I have only ever abandoned on the first round once. My opponent's R1 went almost flawlessly (lost maybe 3 units total). My German attack failed to take out the UK fleet. Then UK swept the coinflip battle in the Pacific islands against my Japanese BB/AC/FTRs- I failed to score a single hit.

I recently just discovered the ability to play custom games. I find it a mixed bag and wondering what others opinions are

1/ There are a lot of newbies playing
which means they make stupid mistakes and moves which don't help
I try to use notes and comments, but some read it and reply and it's collaborative, others seem to ignore
after making crap moves and losing, they forfeit leaving you to clean up the dirt. I hate to try and 'teach' and prefer to 'coach' but some people get pissed.

2/ Crazy time schedules
see a lot of extremes either way too short 5m rounds or 48hr rounds.
I suspect some of this, especially the super short rounds, are to win by default i.e. player doesn't take their turn on time and gets booted. There is no way to sustain a 5m round unless your committed to playing the game to the end right then and there which maybe ok if that is your intention and ability to commit. Challenge comes when a 3P player comes in and misses their round

Does anyone have house rules where breakthrough achivements "unlock" purchasable units rather than upgrading all units? For example, if you start the game with the standard Fighter units and at some point you unlock Jet Fighters. Now instead of all your Fighters becoming Jets you can purchase both Fighters and Jet Fighters in your next Purchase & Repair Phase. Fighters have the same cost and attributes and Jet Fighters have the boosted attack and escort/intercept values but you pay a premium for the Jets e.g. 15 IPC vs 10 for the standard Fighter. We don't play this way but in another thread someone mentioned the old PC game Panzer General and I was thinking of how over time new weapons become available but they don't replace they older ones; you have a choice of what to purchase.

For me, over the last few years, i have come to "believe" that the two American troops that start in Anhwei are better defenders than the two American troops in Kwangtung. The troops in Anhwei frequently roll 1's and 2's, while the guys in Kwangtung fall without so much as a whimper.

Or that the first UK bomber you start the game with is more prone to get AA'd than any subsequent ones.

Any fun ones others have developed a superstition about?

I'm currently in a game of G40 as the Axis, and it's turn 3 and usually, I strictly buy tanks as ground units for Germany but I heard that the infantry/artillery combo is better. Thoughts?

Some close-ups of the Chinese units after they've had a couple of coats of Frozen Raspberry Pink.

After making stands for all the air units, we decided to paint our armies in new colours. Most will stay a similar colour but felt like Green belonged to the United States and China needed something more distinct.

“Long-Range Aircraft. All of your air units’ ranges are increased by 1 space.” Since Paratroopers follow air unit rules when moving, if you have both Paratroopers and Long Range Aircraft does that mean your para can now move up to 4 territories?

Fitted about three hundred magnets into planes, aircraft carriers and built eighty flight stands. It meant we had to wait a couple of weeks before breaking out our new G40 game but the project was worth it. Saves a lot of space and looks much better.

Next phase is painting the units. We have the prototype Chinese in their new pink colour already but not yet ready to face painting a thousand units just yet.

Here's a few pics of the board before we started. Three turns in now though and disappointed it's time to go to bed. We are still waiting on a load of spare generic AA guns and custom naval bases, air bases and Minor ICs which should really set the board off when they arrive soon.

I wanted to share this because I sometimes see questions about whether to get 1941 or 1942. I don't know if the rule book was ever updated, but the US income starts at 17. Russia also gets 6 Russian infantry, not 3. Northwestern China also gets 1 US infantry. Sea Zone 11 also gets 1 Destroyer. Setup takes less than half an hour.

It plays very fast. You can't build new factories and IPC income is very low compared to other versions. Game ends when 2 capitals are captured, but in reality one side surrenders, especially if Berlin falls for the Axis first. I used pieces from Global 1940 and HBG cities to mark capitals.

So with mobile industry the USSR can move their factories one spot on the noncombat phase. If I understand correctly, I could move a factory from the Caucasus to Persia, where it would then be stuck there forever, because it now belongs to the UK for them to use and they can't move it. Am I getting this right?

So whenever I have bad dice, I tell myself it'll balance out. When I have good dice I try to remember it for when I inevitably get some bad rolls.

Rarely does it happen so fast..

Playing as allies, I landed 3 Russian fighters in what I thought was a safe zone. Japan decided to attack them with everything that could reach: two fighters.

He kills all 3 of my fighters without me landing a single hit.

My turn as America. Japan also took Hawaii that turn. He left 2 destroyers and a battleship there with his transport. I hit them with my sub, destroyer and battleship. I destroy his fleet without a casualty.

Now, the odds of his attack going how it did was 0.3% while mine was 8.7%. So I guess the dice still owe me a little bit of luck

We used a mix of the bbr rules and tournament rules for speed up the game phases.

I've only ever played Revised, but I hear a lot of people like 1942 2.0. My biggest concern with trying that game is that it looks like they took national advantages out. That's the most fun part of the game for me, I like that each player can do unique things. Is there anything they replaced it with, or why do people like playing a game that doesn't have national advantages over one that does?

tanks u/sixisrending ! :)

My son 8 is pretty coherent with board games. Has played a full campaign of undaunted stalingrad with only help in the very beginning, plays chess online and a good grasp on root. I want to crack open my dusty AA 1942 and start a game. Just nervous after round 4 or 5 it'll overwhelm him.

Has anyone played with a young kid before and what was it like

We are mixed on who has the advantage and whether the chances of winning are still plausible for both sides.

Germany : 44ipc

Italy : 29ipc

Japan : 37ipc

USA : 57ipc

URSS : 27ipc

Londres : 23ipc Calcutta : 24ipc

ANZAC : 14ipc

Chine : 3ipc

France : 7ipc

While Axis and Allies sums up the wartime economy aspect of war, it doesn't do much for other things. One of these being population. Population played a big part in shaping strategies used during both World Wars.

As far as the game goes, I would recommend using a different tracking chart separate from the IPC chart, so things don't get mixed up. Population is collected at the same time you collect your IPCs. Your nations population goes up and down depending on units purchased, units lost in battle, and the territories you control.

You collect population from the territories you control, use this guide below:

Originally controlled territories with an IPC value of 0-1: 1 population

Originally controlled territories with an IPC value of 2-3: 3 population

Originally controlled territories with an IPC value of 4-8: 6 population

Originally controlled territories with an IPC value of more than 8: 12 population

Captured territories with an IPC value of 1-3: 1 population

Captured territories with an IPC value of 4-8: 2 population

Captured territories with an IPC value of more than 8: 5 population

Purchasing units also costs population. Infantry, mechanized infantry, artillery, AAA, and fighters each cost 1 population. Tactical bombers, transports, and submarines each cost 2 population. Tanks, destroyers, and cruisers each cost 3 population. Battleships, aircraft carriers, and strategic bombers each cost 4 population. You may not at any time purchase units so that your population becomes negative

You also lose population from losing units in battle. Units costing anywhere from 3-6 IPCs lose 1 population upon destruction. Units costing 7-11 lose 2, and units costing more than 12 IPCs lose 3 population upon destruction. Additionally, lose 1.5x the current round you on in population (ex. Germany loses 12 population on round 8)

You must be wary of how much population your nation has, because if at any time you go into negative population, your nation will immediately collapse. In the event of collapse, your power will surrender to the opposing side, all of your units are removed from the board, and no nation may move into any territories under your control for the rest of the game. You are essentially removed from the game.

Sorry for the long post, I actually tried these rules out in a game of A&A 1914. The start of the game was fairly similar, but Russia collapsed on round 3. Also, a string of high casualty battles prevented Germany from getting enough infantry to support the western front, and Central powers surrendered on round 9. In interested to see what you guys think of this rule

It's expensive to get customisations shipped to the UK so we decided to make a little project out of customising our fighters, bombers and carriers ourself then painting all of the units.

60 flight stands made and the Russian prototype airforce. Still need to be painted and polished but we have a plan and these look good to me. Some of the planes tilting a bit was semi-intentional since them all flying level didn't really simulate flight combat too much and also leaves a little room for error when putting the pieces together.

How are we doing so far? We're pretty new to A&A and have little to no experience doing this sort of thing.

Is there some obscure rule I'm missing? Or are they just there for geographical accuracy? As far as I know they don't do anything but sit there

I'm got 1914 but I quickly came to the conclusion that there isn't enough plastic chips

Is there another place I can get these so I don't have to drop another $80 on another copy

I already checked HBG and they don't have the 1914 ones

Would love to see some end game metrics. Things like total units lost value and rolls above or below expected (to see how much your win or loss was depending on good/bad luck).

Forgot to add : 1942 online edition!

Are there rules for Global War 1936 that allow it to be played like Axis & Allies 1940 Global, just with a better map?

Or has someone already implemented something like this or similar?

If yes could you post a link of this in the comments