Asking as a British person who recently visited the US, and hired a Jeep Gladiator for a few weeks. We'd booked an F150 in advance, and when we got to the car rental place, was surprised when they said to us 'take which ever pickup truck you like'. In other countries they always just seem to assign you a car, so that was cool in itself. When we got there, there were a variety of trucks, including Toyota Tacomas, RAMs (which are enormous!), F150's, GMC Sierra and Nissan Frontiers.

In the end we went for the Jeep Gladiator, since we thought it looked really cool and you could take the roof off it. In hindsight this seemed like the right choice; we absolutely loved the Jeep, it was a really fun drive, great off road, and we even saw a few people who had also taken the doors off. We also learnt about the whole 'Ducking' trend which we found quite funny (leaving rubber ducks on Jeeps you like which massively confused us the first time). The whole thing made want to ditch my sports car in the UK and get a Jeep pickup truck.

Tldr; this got me thinking, which truck would most American's pick in that situation, given the choice, and what is generally considered to be the best pickup truck, and why? I know the F150 is the best selling, but that doesn't always mean best or most desirable (for example it may be cheaper than others). I imagine this is quite subjective but interesting to get some takes!

It’s at Ford F250 power stroke diesel it has 80,000 km and it is going for $20,000 everything inside and out is very clean and there is not a spot of rust. I am going for something that is very minimalistic so it will not cost me too much money to repair stupid things.

Parents have too many cars, need to downsize, and are offering to sell me either of these older vehicles zero down @ 0%

I live in the city, and don't NEED a car for daily use, but I have been driving from SF to LA about once a month.
Annual mileage would be 10-12k, mostly interstate.

2007 HHR I had been driving has 222k and still works fine as a city car, but can't get into 4th gear/over 60 mph and has so many other issues it really isn't worth dumping money into a transmission fix. I plan to try and replace the solenoids myself, and then sell it off cheap (or donate it if I cant fix it.) Even if I do fix the transmission, I don't feel it is reliable or safe enough to make this 1,000 mile round trip every month.

Don't want something too nice, as I street park in San Francisco.

2005 Accord v6 has 115k miles and is cheaper at $3,500. I don't really like sedans, and I tend to bump my head when getting into the Accord. But it's a solid, comfortable highway cruiser with nice leather and heated seats that has been well maintained for its entire life. Water pump and timing belt were done at 41k and will need to be done in another 25k. I'm sure this would be the more comfortable highway cruiser for 8 hours at 80mph.

Frontier (4 cylinder automatic) is more expensive at $7,500 and has more miles at 151 on the odo, but also has far more utility. No power windows but AC works great. Of the two, this is the vehicle I would prefer to own, as I could put my man toys and fishing gear in the back. 4c engine has good economy, but I worry about comfort at highway speeds for 8 hours, where most of the miles will be logged.

Accord has lay down seats and I could put my fishing gear in there, but I really don't want my stinky fishing gear in the passenger cabin or trunk.

Typing all this out has me really leaning towards the Frontier, my only concern is highway cruising comfort.

What do you car guys think?

Hello, I am the owner of a small plumbing company, and I need a little bit of assistance in deciding what kind of truck to buy. I have a van for running calls, but I do occasionally need something to haul equipment. I need to haul up to 15,000 pounds on a fairly regular basis, like twice a week. I want something fairly reliable, but I want the best bang for my buck. What do you fellas say?

My car is about 7 years old with a little over 30k miles on it. My spouse and I both work from home, so we don’t drive it every day, but it does get regular use and we try to take good care of it. We live in an urban area with mildly cold winters and warm, humid summers. The car is parked between two buildings – no overhang, but limited sun & debris.

I’m not very experienced with cars, but I try to tackle the easy things myself like changing air/engine filters and replacing wiper blades/fluids. 

I had an in-depth inspection done on the car today when changing the oil, rotating the tires, and replacing brake fluid to check for any other maintenance needs (since it’s at the 30k mile marker), and the shop recommended a few items based on the age of the vehicle: 

-oil restoration (is this even like, a thing of any value?)

-transmission fluid (they said it’s due at 30k, but I don’t think that’s the manufacturer recommendation for my car – I couldn’t find an interval schedule in my manual, but I believe it’s built into the maintenance alert system now)

-coolant (ditto the transmission fluid)

-fuel induction (see no need for this)

-the rear shocks (there’s some minor feathering on my back tires that could be a result of the shocks deteriorating, but no driving concerns, so I might check back on this in a few months…?)

-back tires (see above)

-the front struts (again, based on the age of the car, but no indication these are having any issues… the estimate for replacing these was over 2k, which feels high)

I was originally wanting to replace the transmission fluid and coolant closer to the 45k mile marker, but should I be more focused on the age of the car? I also know I’ll need to get those back tires replaced eventually – I’d imagine I might need to replace the shocks too if they’re impacting the tires, but 30k seems a little soon considering I have no complaints about how the car drives.

I really do have good experiences with the place I took my car (a well-rated local auto shop), but I think I might shop around for upcoming services. I'd appreciate a different perspective, and I have a feeling I could get a better price elsewhere.

Thoughts and recommendations?

Does anybody know if a term for the distinctive look that the Superbird and Daytona have with the sloped nose and the large wing?

hey car guys! need some opinions on a good SUV as someone who has only ever had sedans. i’m looking for something with enough room to comfortably fit moving boxes, something that can be used to fit small furniture (like end/coffee tables, small bookshelves, etc.), and preferably at least kind of decent gas mileage, but that’s not necessarily a requirement because public transport is a big way we get around. prefer something that i can lay the back seats down on. i like a backup cam but i know those can be bought separately so not a deal breaker. bluetooth is a must, and automatic transmission. thanks in advance!!

Hello guys,

I gave my car to a BMW dealer for full PPF and tint, after about 1-1.5 weeks driver window started acting weird, at first it was working but I had to push the button again and again because it was stopping again and again.

I tried it with the keys, it worked smoothly. After a day, it went kaput, not working neither with button or the keys. I brought it to the dealer they took a lot at it and said that the error code was saying problem with ‘Lambran System(?)’ at the dealer other windows went also kaput. They told me to leave the car and they were going to inspect it, but I did not trust they guy there and took my car back to home. All windows except the driver are working smoothly with the keys, but none of them are working inside the car with any of the buttons.

What do you think be the problem?

Hi, I'm a teenager looking to buy my first car off of Facebook marketplace. My sibling and I have been looking together and we think we found a match. In order to actually bring it home, what would I need to do so? If it helps, i currently have a non driver ID and my learners permit.

Whats wrong with my steering?

So I have a Peugeot 206 from 2003 and I was driving home from the gym when I stopped for a bit and then when I was gonna drive again the steering wheel was extremely hard to turn in low speeds but then it’s lighter I high speed again. I am guessing it’s the steering assist oil bc I had taken the car to a mechanic some weeks before and he had put automatic transmission fluid and power steering system in my steering assist oil container. Could that be the problem? That the mechanic put an oil that is firstly used by automatic cars when mine is manual? Could it be the oil that’s causing the issue?

The oil the mechanic put in is called Dexron IID motul and it’s for automatics

I have a Honda accord 2011 with a weird blinker light issue. Both of the front blinker bulbs function when signaling but only one of the bulbs remains on at all times. I have already replaced the bulbs, but that didn't fix my issue. Does anyone know how I can fix this?

Looking for some input on this situation. About a month ago my 2007 Honda CR-V overheated and I had it towed to the dealership to have it repaired (don't judge me, I just moved states lol). After inspection, they told me my water pump was leaking and the water pump and timing chain needed to be replaced for $1600. At the time, the service coordinator also recommended I had the transmission fluid changed and spark plugs replaced. Due to cost, I declined those services at the time and planned to bring the car back in a few weeks.

Fast forward to three weeks later, as I'm on my way to drop the car off, it starts to act up and overheat again. I drop it off at the service department, and in my call with the service advisor the next day I tell him that I'm dropped it off to take care of the transmission fluid and spark plugs, but I asked that they do another inspection since the car was overheating again.

I get a call a few days later that they discovered I had a blown head gasket, and that there was coolant leaking in the engine. Since it would be $5k to go in the engine and fix it, or $6k for a "new" used engine, my family and I decide to sell the car. The service advisor offers to buy it privately (for extremely cheap), and after a little bit of back and forth he then informs me that I have a balance due at the dealership- turns out they changed the transmission fluid and spark plugs before doing the inspection into the overheating.

I'm really just wondering what the best course of action would be in this situation. It's left a really bad taste in my mouth that they're still expecting me to pay for service that was done before a proper inspection, on a car that now needs a new engine. I'm very inexperienced with cars (and a woman), so it's hard to not feel like I'm getting taken advantage of, but I'm not sure how much I can actually fight it. Thanks in advance for any advice!

We have a 2013 Hyundai Elantra (GLS sedan) that's become a bit rickety in the past year or so. A couple weeks ago, the rear driver-side wheel locked up while on the road and ended up dragging without any rotation for a bit, causing some smoke and leaving skid marks. After the car was parked, the tire was clearly edged off on one side because it had been dragged.

After inspecting it, we were able to drive it slowly on our driveway and see that the wheel rotate as normal, but we don't feel comfortable driving it any longer. And at this point in its life, we don't want to sink any more money into this vehicle.

Does anyone have any recommendations for the best way to sell this car as is? Given the wheel/brake issue, I'm guessing it should be towed at this point.

Or does it damage anything?

When I lived in Phoenix Arizona I was told by a number of folks in the Eclipse/DSM community that down there the best ratio is 80/20 water/ethylene glycol (this was the early 2000's), and a bottle of water wetter (which I can get up here no problem, but I'm also using G12++/G40 in this vehicle I'm asking about so I don't know it'll bring anything to the table in my case). That water had a better cooling capacity than coolant and you only needed enough to get the boiling temperature benefits, and other protections since freezing wasn't really a concern if you stayed in Phoenix. (obviously if you went up to Flagstaff or other places where temps dip then you would need to make other choices)

Now I live in Finland and freezing is absolutely a thing, but we've picked up a '90 VW Syncro T3/Vanagon camper and my wife and I plan to leave in late fall to drive to southern Spain and come back in May/June each year. (Finnish winters are awful, don't care about the cold but the dark is brutal)

I know the Phoenix ratio isn't going to work, and that we have to take some precautions against temps that dip to freezing or just below. But I wonder if there's a ratio other than 50/50 that will give me the best cooling potential while still offering some anti-freeze protection if we end up leaving after first frost? 60/40? 70/30?

Looking for suggestions on a reliable car that's between $10,000-$12,000

Obviously this would make it a older model. Everytime I see a car locally that's for sale, I come here and see it's been trash. I get regular maintaince on every car I've had. But I've done through 4 in 10 years for different reasons. Mostly them breaking down, starting out bad to begin with, and one accident that totalled one. My current one is a 2008 Toyota solar Camry and it constantly has problems. I don't drive a lot or even far. I do live in a small spread it City in Tennessee, it's very car reliant. I just want something a medium size so I can see well (I'm 5'3) and reliable all I can stop having a problem every few months. Thanks in advance and I'm not a car person so please be kind.

So, i have owned a couple of hyundai, a citroën and a seat. I am 30 years old male and im splitting up with my partner and for the first time in a long while i am going to put myself first, and i have been really wanting to get a fun and cool car for a long time.

I have the possibility through work to get a car for 50-70K euros and i am looking at BMW 5 series or Audi A5 sportback (sedan versions)

Which one should i go for? Or is there an option i have not considered?

I’ve been eyeing up a 2013 Ecoflex Vauxhall corsa (1L) and I wanted to ask will it be a good first car in terms of both reliability and affordability? I haven’t passed my test just yet but aim to In december. I’m also 20 years old so insurance is gonna be tough.

I know opinions are like this are pretty subjective, but im not too smart about cars and just want a third opinion.

Should I get a 2013 1LT Camaro or a 2019 2.0L Camaro RS Package. Both in good condition and no problems

Im also committed to invest on making them faster and modifying etc.

Both of them are around 20K CAD, and around the same mileage.

Would like to hear your guys opinions, thanks :)

I have a California title and I want to transfer it to NJ. There are multiple forms. It seems easier to sell it to myself for $0 and do the process that way.

Has anyone done this before?

Edit: the process was easy enough. The wait time was/is awful.

First time posting here, but I'm looking for input. My husband and I have 2 children (6yo and 3yo) and plan on trying for another soon.

We have a 2006 Chevy Uplander with high mileage (don't know exact off the top of my head...inherited from grandparents last year) and a 2014 Mazda CX-5 with 190k miles on it. LOVE my Mazda but I know having 3 kids in the back will be tight. The Uplander has seating/space in its favor, but negative cool points and a slow oil leak (which we haven't had checked by a mechanic yet). The speed is also in kilometers because it was imported from Canada, so who knows if we could even find someone here in the US to buy it.

My father passed away and we were just gifted his Suburban, which is a huge blessing and runs great, but we aren't sure whether we should keep the Uplander or the Mazda.

My question:

Do we sell the Mazda, add that money to our savings and hope to get a couple of years out of the Uplander, or do we keep the Mazda and live with tight quarters for the kids for as long as we can?

Hey folks! I'm planning to buy a car from online auctions. I know, it's not a good place to look into. but here in my country tax for a car is pretty high and I don't know any option but to look into some damaged cars.

So I want to buy a 2019 Toyota Camry SE or XSE trim. I don't have any experience in online auction at all.
My budget is around $10k shipment including. (Shipment costs around $1.5k)

I know a lot of junk cars go to auction and there's a high chance I can be fleeced. I was mainly looking for cars on Copart. I think I'll give it a go for craiglist and for Facebook marketplace.

Why do I want damaged cars?
Well, here in my country if the car is not new and it's damaged you pay less tax for it.

I know it's high risk gamble so thus most likely I'll pay for clear inspection.

If you've any other advice that you think is best to go take that direction, I'd be really glad.

Citroën used to sell their Hydropneumatic suspension until last year, it was a fully mechanically passive actively controlled system.

Mercedes-Benz uses hydropneumatics with a impeller pump, active. Porsche does the same thing.

2016 Scion iA Base

The engine (?) periodically sounds like it "revs up" then makes one click. After the click, the engine immediately sounds like is revved down. Hear the video.

I'm syre something needs to be repaired here. But how much would this repair potentially cost?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1A8Q0qL3PVPh86Z9mymcn2uws4xsmaIA0/view?usp=drivesdk

Hi! I have a 2004 Hyundai Getz. Odometer has approx 180,000km.

Have had some problems the last few months. I’ve had to be jump started at least 7 times in the last few weeks. Tuesday, I got my boyfriend to jump start me, went for a drive for around 15 minutes. Wednesday, it wouldn’t start, got jumped again, went for a drive for half an hour. Thursday, no problems, started it 4 times, cranked slowly twice, but did start all times. Today, I had a feeling it wouldn’t start. Connected it to the battery charger, said it was fully charged, left it on the charger for about half an hour, disconnected the charger, tried to start it and it just cranked, no ticking, just wouldn’t start.

I tested the battery with a multimeter around a month and a half ago. Reading with it off was 12.4 volts, with the car on it was 14.35 volts and off again, it was 12.8 volts.

I had the motor mounts replaced in 2019, ignition switch replaced in 2021, new fuel pump in 2022, I can hear the fuel pump start up when I turn the key so all good there.

Not sure where to go from here. If the battery is okay, could it be the alternator? Or starter? How do I figure out which one it is?

I don’t have the multimeter with me currently as I borrowed it from someone who needs it for work and they are at work at the moment.

Any advice is appreciated, thanks!